PARIS FASHION WEEK
“For me, duality is the recurring theme of dunhill – it’s one of the defining elements,” says Mark Weston, Creative Director of dunhill. “This season I wanted that rediscovery of sophistication, of having the confidence for quietness and discretion. It is the attraction in looking at someone who understands a certain aesthetic language and style, but they’re not shouting about it.”
From Country House to Acid House, the duality of British clothing cultures comes to the fore in this season’s dunhill collection. Embracing both tradition and subversion, the field and the street, codified notions of taste and aspiration, crossing British cultures and class boundaries, is both wryly looked at and celebrated in the collection.
The subversion of country living for city streets – so beloved of eighties Sloanes and their Casual counterparts – finds new form here, together with an element of modern Japanese classicism and volume. Relaxed, wrapped tailoring takes the place of the classic double-breasted jacket, fusing a new, sinuous elegance with a kimono approach to cutting; split hem trousers nod to an eighties Casual code, together with the gaiters of the country gent; sumptuous eveningwear fabrics find more utilitarian form with silk faille and moire taking the place of the technical and traditional for field jackets and informal tailoring.